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Category Archives: Photography

Photography and digital editing

There seems to be a large number of photographers who object to the use of Photoshop and the like to adjust photographic images. There are clubs where such practices are banned for competition submission. Given that RAW images require a little post-processing to be usable (and not everyone is happy for this post processing to be carried out by the the computer in their cameras against broad-brush preference settings for vibrancy, sharpness, etc.) this is problematic for many.


I would argue that photographs have always been subject to manipulation, it is just easier to do it these days. Even the way a photograph is taken in the first place has a huge impact of course. There is no such thing in my view as a “real” or a “pure” photograph.

Recently, in response to someone again complaining about the digital editing of photos, I wrote this:

But surely doing lots of very detailed and careful dodging and burning as part of the printing process is just the same as adjusting levels, dodging, burning, etc in Photoshop. As soon as you shoot a 3d view with a 2d imaging device and make decisions around depth of field, you have moved into an artistic world. It might be easier and less time consuming to use Photoshop than working in a dark room, but the pricipled are the same.

I personally do not like heavily over processed images either, nor am I a great fan of what I consider over saturated velvia film stock, I do not like HDR images that have been tone-mapped to death and have auras around everything but I appreciate the more subtle works which will do until exposure range greatly increases and HDR displays become available.

There is no pure form of photography though. I am with you in wanting to get things right to my taste in camera as much as possible with little post processing. That said, Mr Adams [Ansel Adams] is one of the world’s most highly regarded photographers, and I am not. You have to wonder what he would have done with Photoshop.


and Brian Culbertson made the point more clearly (reproduced with his permission – with minor corrective edits):
When film was the standard there was a degree of manipulation you could do in the developing or processing of the film itself as well as in the dark room. pushing or holding the developing times, adjusting chemicals to shift color and contrast, cross processing, film speed speed and types. There is also the adjustments made while shooting the shot f-stop, shutter speed, movement, lighting, reflectors,gels, filters…...the list goes on. And in the darkroom there were no limits. The paper used and the different levels of silver, and dye in them. Use carbonated water when mixing the chemicals? Are any of the forms of manipulation more pure or acceptable than others? In any case you can manipulate for a more classic photographic image, or non traditional image. It seems that the goal is always the same to produce an image that you envision. Is the process of manipulation, and capturing really the focus? Sometimes it is rewarding to try something new. Even if it is not right for the current thing you are working on it might be perfect for a future project or vision.

** updates **


Since the original post, discussions continued

Firstly, I provided an interesting link

And now I find an amazing contribution to the discussion from a guest blogger on Scott Kelby’s site:

http://www.scottkelby.com/blog/2010/archives/7617

Well worth reading don’t you think?


G Stormz Painchaud replied (copied with permission):
I agree that it was worth reading, Stuart.
My opinion has not change though. He said himself, “Most of my images only had subtle adjustments using curves or hue/saturation, but they were applied in a way that transformed the original capture.” (Scott Kelby)

I believe that there are amazing scenes to photograph & keep original—simply because there would be nothing you could add to improve the perfection of the already existing piece. What I believe is that any great photographer could visit or find a place in which these images could be produced—how they are. Photoshop, however, make the photographer completely unchallenged That is too say, he knows he can adjust/add/erase anything bad within the photo.

ANY photographer could find that one image—but they are impatient.

They know that people want new photos a.s.a.p, which is why they find something that looks mediocre & photoshops it. The point is to get a great (photoshopped) image to the audience to show more of their work.

Scott mentions (as you & other have, Stuart) about Photographers from other periods in history. Some, who have the “purist” opinion of work—are in fact hypocrites. They have only praise for photographers from different eras, but bash those of today – who do the same (with better equipment). I do NOT agree with this. I am a naturalist—for those ancients & the newer photographers – & don’t agree with it—no matter who produces the work.

Before this discussion goes any further, I have a question . What is the exact definition of a “Purist”? I have been called a “Purist” when it comes to photography, but I’m not so sure. What are the terms in which a person is a Purist—to what extent? Do they take a photo & do not edit it at all, or do they only enhance with light/dark-black/white ? I do not agree with Photoshop, but I do not post my photos without a “natural” enhance. If a Purist is against all editing—then no, HELL no, I’m not a Purist in the least .

Enhancing & Photoshop are not the same thing. Scott mentions this in the blog aswell. I edit the shades of my photos with the free common downloads you can find anywhere on the web. Yes, I am agreeing that enhancing with these types of programs is a type of Photoshop, but the term for these programs are used lightly. Real photoshop can do things to photos that the common download cannot—ADD/REMOVE items in the image. Photoshop (what I am against it for) is that it can REMOVE/ADD & change anything in the photo that the photographer dislikes & didn’t want or couldn’t take out at the time the photo was taken .


My response:
I think we broadly agree Stormz XO, we are just at different points on the same scale between enhancement and manipulation. I am happy to some personal arbitrary point with enhancements using whatever tools one chooses but less so with manipulation (which is what most people think of when talking about Photoshop) where content is changed (remove/replaced/added) and/or fundamental colour relationships are altered.

If an image can not stand alone without significant manipulation, then I think you and I would agree that time would have been better spent taking a better picture.

Purist was a term using without definition but was intended to mean someone opposed to all digital post processing of an image (perhaps even in camera). You are clearly not a Purist.

Thank you. This has been interesting. May I quote you also on my blog? Do you have a public portfolio of images online? I would be interested to look at examples of your work.


and finally, for now
Thank you, it has been one of my more mature conversations on this subject.
I am looking into having a site with all my work (not just the ones that have been alowd to post), but I have a fanpage & a deviantart ;
[snip]
You can quote me, I hope we can have similar discussion in the future .

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Shooting portraits



On a group on Facebook, a beginner posted links to some nice vivid family photos and asked how he could do the same. I posted the reply below. His own camera is a Nikon D90 with a 50mm f1.8 prime lens.

Yes, you can achieve the same sort of results with your camera.

The Nikon D90 is an excellent camera and you have a great prime lens. You have the choice of generating the images tweaked the way you want in camera and output as JPEG files or using unprocessed raw files that you then process on your computer. There is a lot of advice on the web about the best ways to set the profiles on a Nikon D90 to produce various results.

There are many raw processors around, some are free or very cheap, and you should have got a basic one with the D90 from Nikon.

There are many photo editing applications around. Whilst Photoshop is the best known, consider also the current versions of Paint Shop Pro from Corel and Photoshop Elements from Adobe. Also, look at free options such as the open source GIMP (photoshop like) application or Google’s free Picasa.

It is not really about the software though. You should focus on getting things right in the camera in the first place as much as possible.

Remember, it is all about the light. Some tips:


  1. Learn to shoot using natural light – especially preferred for the shooting of babies

  2. Shoot when light is well diffused – cloudy days are best, net/shower curtains over bright windows are great for indoor shots.

    1. Avoid harsh, direct light (midday sunlight is not at all flattering) – best outdoor light lasts for around an hour in the morning and an hour in the evening – the golden hours around sunrise and sunset when the sun is low in the sky, a lot weaker and helps to give scenes a lot more texture.



  3. Learn to use cheap big reflectors (large reflective boards from your local DIY store) to bounce/reflect light to where you need it.

  4. Learn how to use your aperture settings to control the depth of field so you get just the effect and impact you are after (typically popping the subject from the background)

  5. Read these “rules” on portrait photography: http://www.lumitouch.com/benstudiotutorial/rules.html

  6. Learn to read the histogram on the back of your camera to check exposure and do NOT rely on just the picture preview.

  7. Practice. Practice. Practice.

  8. Only when you have mastered your camera and are managing light to a level where you are comfortable in what you are doing and know how to go about getting the results you are after, should you start to think about playing with software to any significant extent.



Portrait 1 – natural light

This photo was taken using the first Pentax digital SLR with a basic zoom lens. You have much better quality equipment.The subject is sat in a chair near a window that has a net curtain drawn across it and my wife is holding a white chopping board (yes, a chopping board – we were in a holiday cottage in Scotland) near to the left hand side of the face of the subject to reflect some of that window light on to the side of the face that would otherwise be a bit too dark (you want different levels of light around the face to help shape it but not too great a difference or you end up with some bits overexposed or other bits too dark).

The wall paper behind the subject is sufficiently far behind for the aperture I was using for it to be out of focus. We had removed a picture from the wall first.

The black and white with blue eyes effect is somewhat clichéd but easy to do in just about any photo editing package; in photoshop or paintshop it is along these lines: duplicate the layer, use the channel mixed in monochrome mode to make the topmost layer go grey, adjusting red/green/channels to get the best image you can (we stopped trying to add up to 100% years ago), and add a mask the layer to show though the original eye colour.


Portrait 2 - natural and flash light combined

This photo, by contrast, was taken with a D300 (which, in picture quality terms, is slightly inferior to the D90) but with the help of some Nikon flashguns in softboxes.

It was processed in Photoshop Lightroom from the raw file. Processing was very light, just setting the white balance correctly and boosting the blacks a little.



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Raw v. Jpeg again

Revisiting the raw v. jpeg debate, a key difference is that the raw file is what the sensor captured without any processing (other than some compression, if selected) being applied whereas a jpeg (or TIFF) is what the camera itself post-processed from the sensor data in accordance with various camera processing settings. The preview on the camera shows you the embedded jpeg preview in the raw file if you are reviewing a raw shot, and that includes application of the picture control camera settings. If you are reviewing a jpeg shot, you look at that of course.

In the case of Nikon, if you review and/or process the raw files using Nikon software on your computer, then you see the raw file with the same camera settings as were set at the time the picture was taken (a profile reference is embedded in the raw file) but you can switch to an alternative profiles. None of the other major raw processes (including Adobe Camera Raw – until ACR 5.3, when Adobe reverse engineered a reasonable approximation) can understand and apply the Nikon picture control data to the best of my knowledge because Nikon have been somewhat secretive in the encoding of it (even changing the encoding between recent models) of the profiles. If you post process using non-Nikon software then you work from the basic raw data and whatever profile the processor has built in (or selected) and then make changes you want.

Obviously, we can not apply an alternative picture control profile to a JPEG or TIFF file from the camera, as the original data has already been processed and lost.

As far as I can tell, it is the same for Canon except that they have been more forthcoming with their profile data formats so that other raw processors can read them. Ditto Sony.

In addition, if you shoot raw and intend to process you are probably working in the AdobeRGB colour space rather than the sRGB colour space, which is what the display on the back of the camera operates in. (The cameras are generally at least slightly better in their overall gamut footprint than sRGB.) I am not sure therefore that reviewing a raw file on the back of the camera that has a sharpening filter applied is especially informative – in fact, isn’t the display really mostly useful for looking at the histograms?

Regarding sharpening (once of the picture control settings), note that this is usually the last or nearly last step in the post-processing workflow. So, although I would set it for JPEG or TIFF images produced by the camera, and, in the case of raw files, may want to preview it when originally viewed on my computer before commencing post-processing, I would remove any sharpening until I had finished other post-processing work.

Useful thread on flickr: http://www.flickr.com/groups/nikon_d300_users/discuss/72157605667434167/ (especially contribution from intrHawk

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Having nude photographs taken


(Taken from a reply I posted on a facebook group discussion)

In most (but not all) countries, image rights automatically rest with the photographer, exclusively, unless there is a specific contractual exception to this (including employment contracts, where the employer typically takes the rights).

Usually clients get a license from the photographer for specific usage for specific images for specific purposes. If you are paying the photographer, you are the client but this does not give you any rights to the photographs unless (and under the very unlikely eventuality) the photographer hands all rights over to you or unless you get a license (not much point being the client if you don’t though). If the photographer is paying you, well, all bets are off. See what you can negotiate. If you do not like the deal, walk away.

A model release is for the benefit of the photographer (or rather the subsequent users/publishers of the photos who will look to the photographer to provide such a release), not the model. It removes any rights you have to challenge use of the photos (including advertising use that you may not like) unless explicitly ruled out in the release – such challenge is against the user(s)/publisher(s) not usually the photographer unless s/he is the user/publisher or has misrepresented you in some way.

You need a license from the photographer to be able to use the photos yourself (and that will be under the terms the photographer offers). Unless such a license is given in perpetuity, it can be revoked at any time.

The exception regarding a license comes where there is an implied contract such as under a Trade for Print/Photo/CD arrangement where there is clear intent to provide mutual benefit. Better to get a license though to banish all possible doubt.

Nude means many things (and there are lots of terms used to agree exactly what can and cannot be done e.g. OL for “open leg”). You should check out some of the modelling sites for a variety of definitions and also advice on your safety. Google “model mayhem” and “purestorm” as a start.

Think very carefully before you do nude photography given what I have said above. Your ability to control what happens to the images in the future is very limited.

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Learning photography online

(from a reply I posted on a facebook photography group)

There is a huge amount of material online to help individuals learn and improve their photography including academic course leading to recognised qualifications with a number of universities and photography organisations.

The most important thing you can do though, is take photographs. Photography is an art and a skill, and not something you can just learn. You have to practice.

Google is your friend. There are lots of basic introductions to photography – some good, some bad and some that will suit you better than others. The best way is to try a few.

Also, there are a huge number of photography forum and photo sharing sites where you can find other people going through the learning curve and you can learn with them, learning from each other’s mistakes.

one of the newer forum sites I like tied to a couple of magazine, is http://www.photoradar.com/

also, consider getting an account on flickr.com – much better than facebook for sharing and commenting on images and there are thousands of groups dedicated to different aspects of photography including many that provide (mostly) constructive criticism on your work telling you how to get better

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Digital Camera Recommendations

A few weeks ago, a colleague asked for advice on what DSLR camera to purchase for his wife for Christmas. She had past experience of using an SLR camera, an Olympus model, but had not used it for a good number of years. She also had a reasonable stock of Olympus lenses and he wondered if she would be able to reuse them on a DSLR. I thought I would retain an edited version of my response on my blog for reference.

Dear Colleague


Re: DSLR camera for your wife.

I sounded out a few people in forums I participate in as well as my local photo club in order to answer the questions.

They confirmed what a quick google search has suggested, namely that reusing old Olympus lenses on modern cameras (even Olympus cameras) whilst technically feasible is not particularly practical (everything has to be manually operated). Not recommended. The new Olympus camera system uses unique lenses and their cameras and lenses tend to be physically smaller than those of the other manufacturers. Indeed, in addition to their DSLR offerings, they have come up with a system that does away with the R part of DSLR whilst retaining the ability to change lenses. (R stands for reflex and refers to the mirror that sits in front of the sensor/film, and bounces the image that comes through the lens up to the viewfinder via a pentaprism, which flips out of the way when the picture is taken – producing a familiar camera shooting sound) – see section below on Frame size for more information.  Whilst there are a wide range of DSLR camera manufacturers. You are recommended to either go with a Canon or Nikon model as these are the market leaders. There are very good cameras from other manufacturers, but if you want the benefits of mainstream support and economies, it is best to go with one of the leading two.  Any of the current range of either manufacturer is likely to prove to be an excellent camera for your wife. As she has experience of using film SLR in the past though it is probably best to avoid the entry level cameras as she is likely to grow tired of them quickly.

Differentiators


The key differences between cameras as you go up the range are:

  • Manual v. Menu controls

  • Speed

  • Quality


1. Manual v. Menu


Three settings control the photo taking process: a) duration of exposure, b) aperture (size of hole through which light passes), c) sensitivity of sensor (digital or film) – the ISO ratings. In more detail:-
a) Exposure duration (shutter speed): all modern DSLRs cover a very wide exposure duration range – this will not be an issue.

b) Aperture: although set on the camera,  this is a lens issue, not a camera issue; better quality lenses offer lower f numbers (e.g. 1.4, 2.8) – these are called faster lenses because the lower the number, the bigger the hole, therefore the less time is required to get the same amount of light in HOWEVER large apertures produce shallower depth of field images (so only small part of the image in the depth dimension is in focus). Prime lenses have one focal length (a fixed magnification level if you like). Zoom lenses have multiple-focal lengths, which makes them optically more complicated. Cheap Zooms tend not to be fast (or as you zoom – magnify – the biggest aperture you can use gets smaller and smaller). Faster lenses are required for action photography (sports) and are also helpful for portraiture where you want to blur the background.

c) Sensitivity of a digital sensor: this is pretty much preset by the manufacturing process, and increases in sensitivity is then achieved by amplification of the signal – the better the quality of the sensor the better the results of amplification (less noise – just like turning up the volume on a cheap amp gives your distortion, but sounds great on a better system)Generally, the more expensive the camera, the easier it is to change these settings between shots. On the medium cameras and up, you tend to see two knurled knobs (one in front and one behind the exposure button) which you can adjust easily with thumb and finger whilst looking through the viewfinder. These are usually set to control the exposure duration and the aperture. These are the heart of control/creativity in photography. On the cheaper cameras, you tend to have to go into menus to change things.


DSLRs have several operating modes running from fully-automated, scene based (on the cheaper models, to make them more like the small “consumer” cameras), through aperture priority (where you set the aperture, and the camera sets the shutter speed automatically), shutter priority (the opposite of aperture priority), to full manual mode. You can also get controls for, amongst other things, adjusting how the camera judges what the right exposure is likely to be (for example, averaging the light it sees thoughout the whole sensor, weighting the reading for the centre, or taking a spot reading from the centre), exposure compensation (forcing the readings and hence automatic elements in a particular direction to allow for factors the photographer understands but the camera doesn’t such as when photographing someone in a white wedding dress against a dark background where the camera will try to average the two out by default), auto-focusing mode (motion tracking, multiple-points, etc.). The more expensive and professional the camera, the more features tend to be controlled by physical buttons/switches/slides/etc. rather than going through menus.

Given your wife’s experience, she will probably be better having good control.

2. Speed


This refers to how quickly the camera is ready to take a picture from turning the camera on. For the cameras you are looking at, this will not be an issue. It also refers to how fast and for how long it can take a series of pictures. For capturing special moments when the exact timing of the moment is not certain, the faster the camera and the bigger the buffer the better. The better cameras can manage as much as 4-8 frames per second. (Obviously, in video mode, they are recording far more frames per second, but not to the same quality standards as a still picture and modern compression technology is used heavily on video content using frame delta approaches and lossy near redundancy reduction.)

3. Quality


It is important not to confuse quality and resolution. A 12 mega-pixel sensor can produce a better picture than a 24 mega-pixel camera in many cases. The higher the resolution, the more “scaffolding” there is between the individual light collectors which results in increased noise and poorer amplification options. Flow down of technology is rapid at the moment, so in some ways, the more recent and cheaper Nikon D90 can produce slightly better photos than the older and significantly more expensive D300 using the same lenses. The D300 has a wider range of functionality though and better build quality (including protection to keep rain and dust out of the insides of the camera). The D300 is designed as a semi-pro camera and hence has a more robust and protective case. See Clarkvision.com for detailed comparisons between different sensors.

Choices


So, to the current camera choices as at Christmas 2009. Note that VR = vibration reduction, IS = image stabilisation : in either case, optical/mechanical mechanism in Nikon/Canon lens respectively to compensate for vibration when shooting a low speeds (such as taking a picture indoors without a flash).

Options





















Canon 1000D - around £380 with 18-55mm NON-IS lens – ideal for snaps/portraits and not bad for landscapes
Nikon D3000 - around £400 with 18-55mm VR lens – ideal for snaps/portraits and not bad for landscapes
Nikon D5000 - around £580 with 18-55mm VR lens – ideal for snaps/portraits and not bad for landscapes – this camera does video as well
Canon 500D - around £570 with 18-55mm IS lens – ideal for snaps/portraits and not bad for landscapes – this camera does video as well

I think the Canon 500D would be the best option (and that is despite me having a Nikon) keeping your budget constraints in mind. A cheaper alternative would be the Canon EOS 450D £430 plus lens.The best choice though in my view for a longer term investment would be a Nikon D90 but the body alone would cost around £600.Remember though, invest in glass (i.e. the lenses). You can start with a cheap body and a decent lens and you can always keep the lens and use it on future bodies.

Frame size


One last thing to keep in mind for your wife. The film that your wife probably used on her old Olympus camera was known as 135, or 35mm – actually, each negative was 36×24mm. Most DSLR cameras use a sensor that is around 2/3 this size, similar to the short lived Advanced Photo System film format, APS for short, and so the sensors are often referred to as APS-C (where C stands for cropped) sized.

There are now full frame sensor cameras available from both Canon and Nikon. As you would expect, these costs a good deal more than the APS-C cameras. It is worthy of note because older lenses were designed for the original 35mm film size and generally work well on the latest full frame cameras as well as the APS-C cameras BUT some more recent digital lenses were designed for use ONLY on APS-C sensor cameras and whilst they may fit onto the full-frame cameras, they do not cast an image onto the whole sensor. Keep this in mind when investing in more expensive glass as your wife may choose to upgrade to a full-frame body in the future.

Incidentally, the Olympus DSL camera systems uses a smaller sensor size (called four thirds), which many would argue reduces quality compared to APS-C let alone full frame sensors. It is around 30% to 40% smaller than APS-C sensors. They have now introduced micro four thirds.

The use of APS-C sized sensors means that there is a multiplication effect in place against full-frame lens sizes such that a 300mm lens used on a full-frame camera acts like a 450mm lens – i.e. a longer zoom, great at the zoo/safari – on APS-C cameras. This is less helpful at the wide-angle end where an 18mm lens which will give a nice wide view on a full-frame camera gives a more conventional 27mm angle of view on an APS-C camera. (Incidentally, human eye is around 50mm in full frame terms.) This multiplication effect is also known as the crop factor.

Note that much larger format sensors are available for the “medium format” market, where manufacturers such as Mamiya and Hasselblad produce cameras that cost much much more than the most expensive full-frame (35mm) sensor camera. These cameras tends to have replaceable digital backs. There are third party manufacturers of digital backs such as PhaseOne. The resolution on these cameras are often larger than that of DSLRs but the sensors are so much larger that the individual light sensors will be considerable bigger than those of DSLRs even with the higher resolution.

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Challenges to the DSLR

The micro-four-thirds system has introduced cameras that have all the characteristics of DSLRs without the reflex mirror system because of the use of electronic viewfinders (and hence they are not actually DSLRs) but currently these viewfinders are not as good as optical viewfinders especially when shooting fasting moving subjects and/or in low light.

Continued…

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Shooting in the woods

Leaning on a tree

Life has been so hectic over the last few months that the Mrs and me have not had much chance to do model photo shoots. My SO continues to be on duty with St John Ambulance or visiting universities (to continue her studies) on many weekends reducing the opportunities for shoots considerably as we normally shoot together.

However, a model that got in touch with us some months ago and did a quick tester shoot with us got back in touch recently and said she was happy to do a shoot 1:1 with just me. As we had met before and got along well, I decided to go ahead and make a day of it.

Posing with the ferns

Tasha had done a studio shoot before with a white backdrop, so we decided to go the non-backdrop route indoors and outdoors. I went somewhat minimalist and used just a couple of small naked flashes on light light-stands. The desired effect is to produce photos that look as though they have been taken in natural light but which in fact could simply not have been achieved without the aid of flashes (the background would have been overexposed in order to capture enough natural light on the model).

We shot both around the house, in the back yard, by the side of the field next door, and in our own garden before heading off for a quick lunch at a local pub and then heading into the woods. I wonder if any tongues were wagging about me being out with a young woman and not my wife.

Some poses had Tasha sitting in trees, so there was a little bit of familiarity involved in making sure she got in and out of position safely. All completely innocent of cause. One of the advantages of working with someone a little more mature than many of the models we help get started. Tasha isn’t actually someone wanting to be a model, but just someone after some nice photos.

We finished off back at the house, with my Mrs home by now working away on her computer, with one last set of clothes to do a shoot with, namely a bikini. The wet room beckoned. Lighting not great, but we got some halfway decent pics I think.

Processed the photos quickly for a change and uploaded them to our private website. Tash quickly grabbed a few for her Facebook profile.

 

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Meant to go back with big camera

Posted via web from kyber’s posterous

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Missed opportunity of photography in the valleys

I drove home yesterday from Swansea to Telford through the valleys of Wales. Much of the scenery was stunning and a good chunk of my journey was during the so called evening golden hour for landscape photography. So, did I stop for that hour, wander around with my tripod and take some carefully selected photographs? Continued…
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Nikon D300s offers nothing of …

Nikon D300s offers nothing of interest to me over my D300 so no desire to u/g. Phew! DSLRs are stupid places for video rec! #photograohy

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PeeScreet





PeeScreet

Originally uploaded by omalingue


Nice shot, must try one like this soon.

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Day One Hundred





Day One Hundred

Originally uploaded by Dustin Diaz


Only just discovered the photographer behind this image, the 100th in a one year one-photo-a-day style project, where he is exploring what he can do with simple flash guns. He was mentioned on strobist.com. Inspirational.

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No wonder I am on sick leave

chest infection

I have a particularly nasty chest infection at the moment (never a good thing for an asthmatic like me) and my doctor has told me not to do any work, even at home, until I have completed the course of medicine he  has prescribed and I feel fine again.

Unless I am completely knocked out on bed though, being off sick and not able to work probably stresses me more than doing what work I can. That said, I recognise that I have not been looking after myself this year.

work / life balance

I have been off colour several times this year already although have not taken much time off. I did not even manage a decent break at Easter as I was unwell for three of the four days involved. (I should have had the preceding couple of days off work but we were in the middle of something critical that I had really wanted to see completed.)

The project I am on is big and complex and I have a lot of responsibility. I have had the odd day off because of feeling unwell but should have taken more time to recover as well as being careful about the hours I have worked.

I hate mondays

Mondays were the worst day as after an early morning start to get to the office shortly between 9-10, you had a full day of work and then went off into a senior management meeting that did not finish until 11.30pm (and later for some). More recently these meetings have been less regular, on site (rather than a 30 minute drive away), and finished earlier.

long hours

The rest of the week I was not leaving the office until after 7pm. The hotel was just over the road so after checking in, freshening up, and ordering food, I (like many of my colleagues) would fire up the laptop and get back to it. The arrival of the food would herald a short break and a bit of telly I actually followed for a while. Once the food was gone, I would just “finish off” a few things.

There have been many occasions though when a work colleague has replied to my emails in the early hours of the morning or even instant-messaged me (we have an internal instant messaging system) to check something. We must all be mad.

Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday all kick-off with an 8am morning-prayers meeting that I have trouble seeing the value in at the moment (these are usually reserved for critsit – critical situation – periods on projects which I do not believed we have reached).

hotel food

The hotel menu is relatively sparse, so some nights I order for delivery an Indian or Chinese take-away (or occasionally go out and collect one myself). Probably one night a week, I do go out with colleagues for a meal (Indian, Thai or Chinese mostly – not keen on Tapas or Italian restaurants too focused on cheese)

exercise and diet

What you will have noticed is missing from the above is any kind of exercise (and I am not a great exponent of the art), little leisure time, and virtually no healthy food. Two years ago, I was swimming every day at 6am. I just do not feel like getting up at 6am any more. I have not been for a swim for over a year, ever since I developed a constant cough that seemed to be made worse by swimming.

family life

My family is not best pleased with me. Given the above, it is not surprising that when I get home on a Friday evening, I am pretty much exhausted and do not want to do much over the weekend. The kids just see me lazing around and not being as interested in what they are doing as I should be and my wife, having not had my company all week, then feels somewhat neglected at the weekends. Not good. Given that for years, I have spent more nights living away from home than living at home, I do sometimes feel that I live two lives. My wife is though very supportive and as understanding as she can be and we also talk a lot during the week. With the help of Skype and the like when I am away, we have in the past all “dined” together – I am eating too late at the moment to make this work. It has certainly given some of my kid’s friends a shock in the past (having not taken much notice of the open laptop in the middle of the dining table at the start of the meal).

changing things

I am now actively trying to work more sensible house. On my last project, which saw me working near Heathrow 5 days a week, I did not get away from the office until around 6.30-7pm on Fridays. I am now trying to leave mid-afternoon on Fridays and sometimes earlier if at all possible. I also arrive later on a Monday than I used to. I am looking at being more protective of my hours in the evening and possibly getting to sleep earlier so I can take up the swimming again.

There was talk of being put up in managed flats rather than living in hotels. One of my colleagues (in fact my boss, working on another project) who was always opposed to living in flat was recently forced to do so and has reported it to be a huge benefit. The flat is fully managed so is cleaned and bedding changed just like a hotel room. He can cook is own food though and please himself. As a direct result of cooking for himself, he has lost a lot of weight (and he is no great cook).

As I expect to be on my current project for some considerable time, I must explore the flat option. That would remove the convenient swimming option from my day though (assuming I ever take it up again).

Photography is one of my main hobbies, so I am looking at both getting out and about and doing a bit more in the evenings now the light is with me and also getting some models over to the hotel for shoots. I notice many other photographers who live in hotels during the week do this.  Obviously, would want it to be clear that nothing sleazy that could bring me or my employer into disrepute was going on.

So, fingers crossed that I get better this week (with the benefit of a long bank-holiday weekend coming up) and can return to work healthy next week and put my plans into action.

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a few weeks later

It has been a while since I blogged. One reason has been because of my getting into Twitter, mostly using my iPhone as I am now.
Work has been extremely hectic over the last few weeks as well. My weekends have been taken up with work, which is never a good thing. I am certainly looking forward to the long Easter weekend.
My eldest was away a couple of weekends ago on a college geography field trip. That meant the rest of us could go shopping. Or at least my youngest could try on prom dresses to decide what style elements to go with. The dress will be made to a custom design by my talented wife, so it was not an expensive day.
Not so keen ok dress non-shopping myself, but as the destination of choice was Chester it meant I could spend the day doing street photography. Nothing special achieved, but I enjoyed myself.
Had to go home early last weekend. My eldest got a small cut on the arm but she and my wife were unable to stop the bleeding. They are both first aid qualified so there was not much advice I could give them.
My wife surprised me on Friday morning by telling that they had spent most of the night in causulty. I went home.
Daughter went to the local surgery nurse to get rebandaged. Just about got through the weekend. Hand went a bit blue at times. Went back to Doc’s on Monday. He was puzzled. A blood sample was taken and the hole for that clotted. Phew! More bandaging and go back in two days. So returned to work in Swindon today. Sadly I have a cold so feel terrible. At least I am not losing blood.
Amongst all this, my eldest still managed to drive along lots of test routes ready for driving test next Saturday. Her instructor days she us his best prepared student ever. Fingers crossed. She also took her Mom to an archery simulator – a mother’s day present from a couple of weekends before. my wife got the taste for it and may well take up the sport.
My youngest hasn’t just been trying dresses. Oh no. She had taken grade 5 practical exams in both piano and classical guitar. The curriculum is changing so she had to take them both now or start learning a new set of pieces.
On top of this, she is on stage in another show this week and weekend. This time, Guys and Dolls. Big show, big theater, bug talent. Lots of rehearsal. How does she do it? Hope GCSEs don’t prove to be too much of a problem.

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Let’s hear it for sellotape





Let’s hear it for sellotape

Originally uploaded by kyber


I connected with a new model through Purestorm and one of the things she really wanted to to do was to reproduce the iconic “American Beauty” style rose petals shot.

Not something we had tried before, but we were happy to give it a go. We purchased 2000 fabric rose petals from ebay. It wasn’t enough – amazing – but we made do. Must get some more.

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DSLR v Compact Camera

Introduction

Digital SLRs and Compact Cameras both have their place. Over the last year or so, I have upgraded both my DSLR and my Compact and make heavy use of both. The former is particularly useful for the many model shoots we do as well as some commercial portraiture. I try to have my compact camera with me at all other times so I can grab photos whenever I get the opportunity.

Bottom line

Bottom line is that modern Digital SLR systems with half-decent lenses are faster at startup time and focusing than ANY compact digital camera.

Focusing speed

The focusing mechanism is faster on DSLRs because they work against the optical image whereas compact cameras do their focusing based on processing of the sensor image. A DSLR has a mirror @ 45 degrees in the way of the image sensor that redirects the light up to the eyepiece. The mirror also lets some of the light pass through to a second mirror that redirect light down to a focusing system. A compact camera has no mirror and therefore can only work off the sensor image. Some of the latest DSLRs can now switch to the same mode as compact cameras in order to allow you to see the composition on the rear LCD monitor but they then use the same focusing system. (My Nikon D300 in fact offers two focusing mechanisms for use when the rear display is showing the live image in addition to the standard focusing system when the mirror is in the way of the sensor.)

Glass

Some of the best glass (lenses) for modern Digital SLRs were made long ago, often before digital cameras existed. However, some non-professional older lenses or cheap lense do not allow quick focusing. A DSLR is ultimately limited by the quality of the glass that you put on it. Once you have got into a system, you can slowly invest in better glass that will last you years. Each manufacturer has its own system and third party manufacturers make for all of the popular systems.

Camera makes

Both my wife and I use Nikon, which is now the market leader in Europe. The other main competitor is Canon. Frankly, there is not much to tell them apart. I am on a Nikon D300 but you can now get the Nikon D90 which includes virtually all of the same capabilities, potentially slightly better overall performance (newer) and High Definition Video!! My wife has a Nikon D80 but has switched to using my "old" Nikon D200.

The other key players are Olympus, Pentax and Sony. Sony is a relatively recent entrant having acquired the business of Minolta a while back. (My first DSLR was a Pentax, called the *ist D and I had its film based predecessor). Sony is trying really really hard to be a big player in this market. The sensors that Nikon use are made by Sony (although to Nikon design).

Pentax is falling by the wayside (Jessops are ceasing to stock them for example).

Olympus have teamed up with a few others and headed off into a slightly different world firstly with the introduction of a new (smaller than usual for DSLR) sensor size called Four Thirds and more recently with the Micro Four Thirds system, which does away with the mirror I mentioned earlier (so technically, not a SLR – single lens reflex – system) that supports lens changing. 

The resolution con

Take great care with regard to resolution. More is not necessarily better. The physical size of sensors in DSLRs is significantly greater than that of ALL compact digital cameras. Thus the amount of light that is captured and hence the quality of the image is greater from DSLRs. As resolution increases though for any given sensor size you are increasing the number of "light buckets" you have whilst decreasing their individual size, you are also increasing the amount of insensitive space between the buckets. This can simply increase the amount of noise (digital interference).

On a DSLR, 6Mb is actually fine for prints up to A4. 10Mb will happily give you good results at A3 and beyond with the right treatment. You will notice some DSLRs being referred to as "full frame" which means the sensor is around the same size as a 35mm negative (the "old" Canon 5D is a good full-frame DSLR, recently replaced by the 21 meg 5D mark 2, the Nikon D700 is another example of a full frame camera). In most reviews, the 12meg cameras come out better than the higher resolution cameras. Most DSLRs have an "APS-C" sized sensor which is roughly around 2/3 the size. This has an advantage in that a) the full diameter of older lenses is not used and it is at the edges that performance weakens and b) this effectively multiples the focal length of lenses so a 200mm lens is actually like a 300mm lens would be on a film camera (i.e. you "see" further). This size is still much bigger than that of compact camera sensors.

A place for both types of camera

There is no denying that compact digital cameras (and cameras on phones) are convenient. Indeed, I have recently invested in a new high-end digital compact camera (Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX3). However, once mastered, a DSLR gives much more  reative capability, higher quality, and more flexibility.

I recommend a DSLR for a quality record

If you are serious about getting into photography and having a good record of your son and of any future offspring growing up, get a DSLR. You do not have to start at the top of the range (invest in glass – it lasts). Video is handy, but is often not as powerful or convenient a medium as a still image.

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A photo story

We had lined up a different kind of photoshoot to the usual modelling and portraiture work we do. Namely, we were going to attempt to tell a story.

I had been off sick for a couple of days so was not sure that I was going to be well enough to go ahead with the shoot but on Saturday morning, I felt fine and ready to go ahead.

The model arrived on time with her agent and got straight down to work after signing the paperwork. We had laid out a rough storyboard and knew what shots we wanted, where we would do them and what props were required.

We took many shots and can tell several stories, but this 5 shot version is my favourite although I think that it will be best if it was all black and white.

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Hair


thumb_20090124-_D305374_pp
Originally uploaded by kyber
Great shoot today although the start was a little suspect. We do a lot of TFP – trade for picture/print/photos shoots, i.e. a mutual trade between a model and a photographer whereby no money is exchanged but time and skill is given to each other for mutual benefit..

This is especially useful for new models who want to build up experience with shoots before they can start to charge for their time. Similarly, amateur photographers or photographers with limited experience of portrait photography get to practice and develop their skills. Usually both parties benefit because they both get additional material for their portfolios.

Some very experienced models also do TFP work, sometimes just to help out new photographers but also if they want to get something different for their portfolios. Something they perhaps can not get froma commercial shoot.

The model here, Laura, came to us through Purestorm. She turned out not to be 18 (which should not be the case on Purestorm) but turned up with her mother and her boyfriend’s mother (the driver) rather than just her boyfriend who also want a porftolio putting together. I had suspected that she was under 18 and had insisted that she bring a passport with her. She had told me that she was doing so but then turned up with her mother instead.

Some photographers would have through a fit at this point and booted them out. As my wife and I are a husband and wife team and as we have teenage daughters, we were able to go with the flow and produce some smashing work. Obviously we had to steer clear of anything that would not have been age appropriate. Once Laura had got over her nerves though she started to enjoy herself and worked hard. Good results for a first shoot.

This image was processed in Portrait Professional and then tweaked a little in Photoshop and Lightroom before being uploaded. Mostly I do very little processing on the pics I take prefering to get as much right in the camera as possible but I wanted to show her mum the art of the possible. I got suitable "oohs" and "arhs."

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New clothes for classic pose


New clothes for classic pose
Originally uploaded by kyber
Watched a programme on BBC 4 last night called Seven Photographs that Changed Fashion. To quote: "Fashion photographer Rankin recreates seven of his favourite images as he takes a journey through a brief history of the fashion photograph. By re-staging iconic images by Cecil Beaton, Erwin Blumenfeld, Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton, Herb Ritts, David Bailey and Guy Bourdin, Rankin exposes the ways in which fashion photography uses fantasy and beauty to communicate something about reality."

Really enjoyed it. As we had a model shoot lined up today, it seemed only sensible to have a go ourselves at recreating one of the shots (a Bailey). Not a bad first attempt even if we do say so ourselves.

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Party photography

To late for the Christmas/New Year parties, but no doubt there will be further opportunities throughout the year for most of us.

My take on this would be…

It all depends on the lighting of course. If you are using available light, then it needs to be reasonable or you will have to have an exposure longer than people can be still for. Using very fast film or a high ISO setting (if digital) will mean you can shorten the exposure.

For exposure of anything slower than about 1/60s you need to have the camera on a steady surface rather than hand-held. A tripod is best but a counter/shelf/wall at the right height will do the job. (A small bean bag or a Joby Gorillapod will give you a lot of options – I use a small Gorillapod with my compact.)

A flash will help. It means you can expose the people close to the camera properly whilst allowing the rest of the night time scene to exposure using ambient light naturally IF your camera gives you this degree of control.

A key challenge is avoiding problems with the flash. This depends on the kind of flash you have and what control you have.

Compact camera on-board flashes for point-and-shoot camera offer you very limited flexibility and it is practically impossible unless you have a model with advanced features to effectively control the two exposures you have that make up a shot when using flash. About the best you achieve is putting some kind of covering over the flash (even toilet paper) to soften it.

If you are using an SLR or DSLR, then you on most models with a built in flash be able to reduce the power of the flash. (Covering still applies.)

Ideally though, you need to use a flash gun. Do not point it directly at the people though. Bounce it off a surface nearby (perhaps a light coloured wall that is behind you). This will provide a very diffused light. This is easier indoors than outdoors of course.

For maximum control, getting the flash gun away from the camera so you have off-axis flash gives you the best results. Diffusion options still apply. Remote requires either a long cable, remote firing components, or a wireless system like that built into Nikon cameras such as the D80 (this is the Nikon Creative Lighting System which lets you use, for example, the small pop-up flash to control one or more remote flash-guns without the pop-up contributing to the exposure itself unless you want it to).

Combining in door ambience with flash is very tricky and something that frankly I rarely make the time to do at parties.

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Chalk and cheese

Miracle of miracles, at a New Year’s Eve party last night, I managed to capture a photo of my daughters sitting nearly together in a spot suitable for a quickly grabbed portrait. Their styles of dress illustrate significant personality differences.

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Optical illusion

I think most people like optical illusions. We take what we see so much for granted most of the time that to have a specific demonstration of how easily we are fooled is rather striking.

The best I have seen for a long time is provided on the Bob Atkins Photography site where he shows the image below and then tells you that the squares marked A and B are EXACTLY the same colour/shade. No matter how much you study this photo, you cannot convince yourself of this.

You need to visit the site of Dr Adelson, who created this image, to get an explanation of what is going on.

The image below with a grey line through it does demonstrate that the two squares are the same.

  Other than the addition of the line, the image has not been changed.  It does help the eye/mind see things a little differently.

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Models not turning up

I am a member of several modelling forums where photographers and models can maintain profiles and get in touch with each other to arrange mutually beneficial shoots. One of the problems with arranging shoots that are not commercially based with models you do not know is that it is hard to tell the time wasters / flakes from the truly committed.

Another photographer has posted his top tips to help filter out the the problem models. I have to agree with his conclusions.

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New compact camera

I have had an early Christmas present: a Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX3 – a premium compact camera. It has been hard to find a compact camera to replace an elderly knackered model that is good enough to carry anytime when it is not convenient to have my Nikon D300 DSLR with me (which generally means when working, out shopping, walking the dogs, etc).

The trouble with being a keen photographer today is that, unlike in the old days of film (where small and cheap could still produce very very good results), there are hundreds of different models of compact camera covering every price point and it is hard to work through the noise to find what is actually good from a photographers point of view. Most compacts are designed to be quick and easy to use and, except for the cheapest of models, stylish.

Most compacts are designed to work in typical social situations with minimal user intervention. In short, most stuff is automated with the user (note I am saying user deliberately rather than photographer) having to do little more than choose a scene mode and perhaps pop-up a flash. Many even pop up the flash automatically and figure out what kind of scene is in view (picking out faces at a party for example).

A photographer may well want to just point-and-shoot at times (hopefully with a little more awareness of composition than the average punter). The rest of the time though, the photographer wants control: exposure settings, focus, lighting. Some compacts let you vary exposure a little using compensation features, but lack a true manual mode.

The LX3 has full manual control, manual focusing if required, and a hot-shoe for a more powerful flash if the built in model is not good enough. It also offers a RAW model (i.e. you can save original sensor data rather than having the camera generate JPEG files based on a wide range of settings).

I managed to charge the battery a little for a quick play, but have now got to wait until the battery if fully charged to get to know the device properly. In the meantime, I can read the manual (which I am downloading in the background) – there is (unusually) a full and detailed printer manual supplier with camera BUT the text is a little small for me hence downloading a copy of the manual which I can read backlit on the screen at any magnification I want to use.

Fingers crossed.

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